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Under the global consensus to deal with climate change, promoting carbon peak and carbon neutralization is not only the internal requirement for China to achieve sustainable development and high-quality development in the new development stage, but also the inevitable choice for the textile industry to build a solid foundation of industrial safety, realize green transformation, win global respect and gain the right to speak in the future.

"With the theme of 'carbon reduction · thinking about the source', the competition aims to promote enterprises to carry out market-oriented ecological textile development, shape the 'responsible' social image of Chinese textile enterprises, and provide strong support for the green and sustainable development of the textile industry." On July 29, at the "review meeting of the 2021 4th China eco-friendly fabric design competition" held in Shengze, Jiangsu Province, the relevant person in charge introduced that a total of 2451 products were collected and 370 enterprises participated in the competition. At the same time, it is also revealed that the competition will be held once a year instead of once every two years. Through event publicity, salon training and other activities on industrial clusters, exhibitions and other platforms, the promotion and influence of the competition will be further increased and improved.

Li Binhong, director of national textile product development center, Li Bo, deputy director of China Textile Information Center, Chen Baojian, chief engineer of national textile product development center, Zhang Jianhua, deputy director of Wujiang high tech Zone Management Committee and director of China Oriental Silk Market Management Committee, Lu Ziping, director of China Oriental Silk market management office and Zhang Lei, deputy director, Mei Qinhua, general manager of Jiangsu Shengze Oriental Textile City Development Co., Ltd., and other leaders and guests attended the evaluation activities.

Shen Chunrong, deputy district head of Wujiang District People's government, Secretary of the Party Working Committee of Wujiang high tech Zone, Secretary of the Party committee of Shengze Town and Secretary of the Party Working Committee of China Oriental silk market, visited the evaluation site for guidance. He said that through the activities, Shengze textile enterprises can actively participate in innovation evaluation, take design as the guide, improve product value, promote the organic integration of Shengze textile industry and ecological environmental protection, and form new advantages of ecological textile.

Director Li Binhong served as the chief judge of this competition. At the meeting, 10 expert judges from various fields of textile and garment comprehensively considered the green innovation level of products from multiple dimensions such as the application of eco-friendly materials, the application of eco-friendly technology and the market application of eco-friendly products.

Explore the prosperous path of "double carbon"

In his speech at the meeting, director Zhang Jianhua said that based on the objectives of China's carbon peak and carbon neutralization and the background of the ecological and green integrated development demonstration area of the Yangtze River Delta in Wujiang, the holding of China's ecological and environmental protection fabric design competition has greatly promoted the upgrading of the green capacity of the industry, the improvement of the green color system and the enrichment of green ecology. As the "No. 1 textile town in China", Shengze will take the competition as the platform, be more committed to promoting market-oriented ecological textile development, be more committed to exploring the Shengze path of carbon peak and carbon neutralization, accelerate the formation of a benign interactive pattern of market, industry and urban and rural areas - establish and improve the economic system of green and low-carbon circular development, Build a market-oriented green technology innovation system to realize high-quality development oriented by green development.

"The cooperation between Shengze and the competition not only reflects the high consistency between the concept and purpose of the competition and the development direction of Shengze industry, but also reflects Shengze's distinctive attitude and leading consciousness in green development." In his speech, deputy director Li Bo said that the competition is based on Shengze and links the whole industry, which has greatly promoted the development level and competitiveness of industrial green products, and brought innovative models and innovative models that can be used for reference and promoted to the industry. From thousands of participating products, we can not only see the thinking of enterprises on Humanistic responsibility, environmental responsibility and market responsibility, but also see the ability and value of China's textile industry to achieve green and sustainable development.

Diversified innovation of ecological and environmental protection design

The competition has set up a total of 15 "best eco-environmental protection material application award, best Eco-environmental Protection Technology Application Award and best eco-environmental protection product market application Award". On the one hand, the award selection pays attention to the scientific application of products to eco-friendly fibers, highlighting the value improvement of products in environmental protection style, function and quality; On the other hand, pay attention to the application of ecological and environmental protection technology in any link of the product life cycle, and pay attention to the grasp of the product in terms of fashion trend, product positioning and market application.

"Xinjiang cotton is a domestic high-quality long staple cotton material and also a primary degradable fiber. We encourage products to use various processes and technologies to broaden the application field and innovation ability of Xinjiang cotton." Turning to the overall situation of the products, chief engineer Chen Baojian pointed out that, first, in terms of materials, the number of recycled and bio based products in synthetic fibers has increased significantly, and there is better performance and creativity in terminal applications. Second, in terms of technology, PVA free sizing technology, biological enzyme pretreatment and other process applications have emerged, which can effectively reduce the application of alkali in the subsequent printing and dyeing desizing process and reduce the pollution and waste of water resources. Third, ecological certification covers diversified forms such as sustainable source certification, bio based certification and regeneration certification, which shows that fiber materials are more widely used, and enterprises pay more attention to the standardization and standardization of ecological fabric development.

Experts on the development of ecological textiles

——Popular trend Perspective

The competition has always advocated the design concept of ecological textiles based on market demand and fashion trends, and guided and promoted the orderly development and innovative application of ecological textiles in the whole industry by transmitting product development trends. In this regard, Li Xiaofei, deputy director of fashion trend Department of China Textile Information Center and deputy editor in chief of textile and garment fashion trend outlook, interpreted the fashion trend of Chinese textile fabrics in autumn and winter 2022 / 23 at the meeting. She said that the participating fabrics took into account the product style and the use of environmentally friendly materials“ The grasp of the popular trend and the application of the concept of ecological and environmental protection are a relatively large concept. How to truly make a fine and quantifiable balance needs to start with the design system and popularize the ideological and educational work from the source. "

——Perspective of technological innovation

"Through the detailed introduction of the participating fabrics, we can fully understand the cutting-edge environmental protection materials and processing technology used by the fabrics. How to make designers get a more general understanding and cognition of these new fibers and technologies, I think this is a job that the competition can try to do in the future. " Jiang Zhuojun, vice president of Lu Xun Academy of fine arts and Lumei Culture International Institute of fashion, suggested that docking and exchange activities between enterprises and designers could be held, or eco-environmental protection related training courses could be opened for design students, so as to integrate the development of fabric development and fashion design.

Professor Xu Yang of the school of textile science and engineering of Jiangnan University believes that the overall professional level of fabrics is very high, the application of environmental protection materials such as recycled fiber and stock solution colored fiber is very common, and various energy-saving and environmental protection processing technologies such as warp shaft printing, low-temperature dyeing and solvent dyeing are also relatively mature. In addition, many fabrics have very good performance integration of functionality and environmental protection properties.

Zhou Shaoen, assistant dean of Beijing Institute of fashion and deputy director of the National Health Research Center, said that the fabric classification of this competition is very detailed and professional. As designers, it is expected that the competition platform can be extended before and after the competition in the future. For example, based on the good fabric development ability of participating enterprises, organize designers and brands to carry out closer interactive exchanges, provide external market information and consumer demand support for fabric enterprises, and realize the multi-dimensional value promotion and virtuous cycle of enterprises, industries and society.

——Brand procurement Perspective

"I was impressed by several functional fabrics. They not only have practicability and comfort, but also apply innovative technology to traditional materials to improve the feel of fabrics." Cao Yong, general manager of bodywit body wisdom of lesen (Beijing) Clothing Co., Ltd., believes that the current consumption upgrading trend is obvious, and more and more consumers are willing to pay for environmental protection. Therefore, fabric enterprises should continue to strengthen the publicity and R & D of products in terms of social responsibility and environmental sustainability.

Chen Yuxiang, director of innovation and R & D of Maiya clothing (Shanghai) Co., Ltd., said that the participating fabrics in this competition took into account fashion and functionality, complied with the fashion trend and met the sports needs of consumers. Eco friendly fabrics are relatively differentiated products, which can play a vital role in the operation of enterprises. It is suggested that enterprises can more intuitively convey their ideas to consumers by "telling stories".

"At present, many consumers still lack systematic awareness of the use of environmental protection products, and still need an explosion point to resonate with the market." Liu Haohai, head of Pathfinder Holding Group Co., Ltd. and Pathfinder / toread / discovery R & D department, said that as an outdoor brand, Pathfinder has also actively invested in environmental protection and launched corresponding environmental protection products. He believes that nylon 56 products and "paper fiber" products are relatively novel among the fabrics participating in the evaluation. Among them, paper fiber is rolled and formed by recycling, crushing and mixing of paper materials, which needs time to be verified in later marketing and application.

"What I feel most is integration." Zhao Huizhou, general manager and chief designer of yizhihui fashion group (Shenzhen) Co., Ltd. and yizhihui / Hui, said that compared with previous years, the level of high-quality fabrics in this competition has been improved by leaps and bounds, and has achieved a good integration in color, pattern and technology. As a high-end brand, yizhihui's fabric procurement has reached 60-70% localization. Through the selection of samples for this review, it can completely replace the needs of yizhihui“ Environmentally friendly fabrics and natural fibers have now become people-friendly, which has infinitely expanded the width of their market application. There may be an outbreak in the past two years. "

Zhi jun, manager of material R & D Department of Xiamen Tebu children's products Co., Ltd. and Tebu (China) Co., Ltd., pointed out that degradable and renewable fabrics have become new materials of general concern to brands. Among them, polyester is widely used in the field of sports and leisure. If degradable polyester can be used to replace traditional polyester, it will be of great benefit to promote the green development of the industry. In addition, as a brand of children's products, the requirements for fabric comfort are also very high. If the fabric can give consideration to safety and comfort, it will be favored by the market.

——Industry perspective

"The entries in this competition have increased significantly compared with previous ones, reflecting the importance of Chinese textile and garment enterprises to sustainable fashion and their R & D strength of ecological materials and ecological technology." Director Li Binhong said in his summary that "science and technology, fashion and green" are the positioning of China's textile industry and the core values of China's textile product design. Sustainable fashion practice is a systematic project of product life cycle management and supply chain collaborative innovation“ Therefore, we have the responsibility to further strengthen the development, training and market promotion of ecological textiles. " She pointed out that on the one hand, we should improve the design thinking and comprehensive innovation ability of textile fabric designers, and improve the design ability of color, pattern and style fashion trend while strengthening the application of ecological textile materials and ecological textile technology; On the other hand, actively transfer the design concept and technical process of ecological textiles to end consumer brands, and continuously transform the technical value into commercial value.

The winners of the competition will be announced on the official website and media platform of the competition in August. The award-winning enterprises will be invited to participate in the "2021 4th China eco-friendly Fabric Design Competition Award Ceremony" held in Shengze in October and the "Silk City fashion collection" - Shengze award-winning enterprise product fashion show held at China International Fashion Week in Beijing. The award-winning products will also be displayed and promoted at the "Chinese popular fabrics" booth of China international textile fabrics and accessories (autumn and winter) Expo in August and Jiangsu (Shengze) Textile Expo in October. At the same time, they will be promoted and displayed at relevant professional exhibitions in the domestic textile industry.